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It was tested and found to be fine. We left the boards out for over a week until the floor was dry. If there is, the cost to verify would probably be small in comparison to doing a good mitigation system. It makes me wonder if that may potentially be a perfect environment for mold growth. However, it was not my intention to use quarter round which means that I would, instead, bring it up behind the baseboard (which of course gets sealed with caulk at the top). The slab is butted right against the outside wall of the building which is an old wooden country store with the wall opened up that has the normal reach in doors to the inside of store. Thanks for the question. The boards were installed again. Good luck. Have one of them evaluate and give you some input. Run 2- or 3-inch strapping along the slab’s perimeter and place strapping boards every 16 or 24 inches over the entire slab area. I am trying to figure out if I should remove this plywood and latice material and recover the foundation, externally, with something else. Jason has 20+ years’ experience in sales and sales management in a spectrum of industries and has successfully launched a variety of products to the market, including the original Rapid RH® concrete moisture tests. Now we are considering putting some type of barrier between the two, and are toggling between the mvb moisture mitigation product and a moisture barrier underlayment beneath the vinyl. Pick an area that seems to have the worst issues, prep the area thoroughly, and apply the epoxy paint. Great information. I am putting down the plastic barrier on top of the sub-floor, and then the new Pergo laminate on top of that. On the other hand, the sheet also helps to ensure there is a break between the blotter layer and the concrete to keep groundwater from entering the slab later in its life. unfortunately i did not . If there are cracks in the slab and the drainage is poor, it may even cause ground water to seep up through the cracks and puddle on the floor. Another possibility, or it could be some combination of both, you may be dealing with is some type of condensation issue, but I would think there would be signs on the rest of the floor if that were the case. You may want to also look at power vents that may assist with increased airflow when preset levels of relative humidity and/or temperature levels are hit. Currently, a vapor barrier is typically applied over a layer of granular fill to try to minimize the wicking effect of ground moisture. Tried epoxy paint to seal rec.room – blistered in many areas. Concrete Garage Floors & Vapor Transmission. They are a network of flooring inspectors. Seams must be properly sealed, heavy grade materials must be used where traffic may cause penetration, and the lowest possible grade of permeance should be used. 2) Try to find a flooring product that is more “breathable” and/or less moisture sensitive. Is a vapor barrier necessary under a concrete slab with foam insulation and if so, where does go? So I think we can both agree on that. Would pouring a new slab over the existing one be something to consider? Thanks Tracy, Hey Jason. It might be worth investigating yourself or having someone out to evaluate. My dad and husband just poured two footings in our basement and forgot to put down the 6mil poly specified by the engineer before pouring the concrete. Thanks for the questions. You can then measure the surface temperature of the concrete. Is there something I need to be aware of and watching for in having a concrete floor as my flooring? your inbox. I want to put carpet back in my basement as I work on my music projects down there. My only concern with laying a vapor retarder of that type, on the slab, would be the potential buildup of moisture between the slab and the retarder. I just had a new concrete slab poured in my basement. Any suggestions? But I worry that sealing my floor will cause more problems with trapped moisture underneath? Thanks for the question. The rooms are separated by a marble floor installed in the main parts of the house. That being said, yes moisture vapor can condense under the 6 mil, but the odds are it will be a constant flux of condense and reabsorption back into the concrete. Would that be sufficient or do I still need to be concerned and look into membranes (Platon, Superseal) that allow airflow? Take care. These surface meters are meant to be used to identify suspect areas on a floor, not to make installation decisions. Your best bet is to have the installer provide the installation guidelines for the polyurea that will be installed. Thanks for the question. We could find no reason (roof leak, plumbing leak, wall leak, etc.) Thanks for the question. This leads me to believe it’s condensation. I cleared efforescent and dried floor. Before you can try for a solution, you need to know how big the problem is. The higher the number, the more permeable the material. The foundation walls were constructed in 1990, there does not appear to be any moisture leakage through any of the sections of concrete. The concrete slab is the air barrier, and the ripped and torn and punctured polyethylene sheet is the vapor barrier. It has not happened in the last 16 years but Mr. Murphy could show up at any time. One option may be to have a coating installed that has some type of slip resistant surface. You should research them and look at warranties. For instance, if you apply vinyl flooring directly to the slab, even occasional moisture in markets such as Phoenix can be enough to accelerate the potential for failure between the vinyl and the concrete. Much of what you said I’ll agree with but not the part that water will hurt the concrete. The concrete that it is setting on is kind of rough. As far as the “results” from the 6mil poly on the surface of the concrete, there is a reason this is not a flooring industry-recognized concrete moisture testing standard. Thanks for the comment. I can’t say whether vinyl planking would be better, but I would at least investigate it. my issue is moisture. You’ll hear people using the terms ‘vapor barrier’ and ‘vapor retarder’ interchangeably. I, personally, have never heard of Drylok, but I can tell you that there are numerous products on the market that can help with issues like you have described. Thanks for the questions. 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